"Never stop exploring"

lundi 24 janvier 2011

Thai Tanium Project - Thailand Rebolting.



Thailand is renown for its marvellous beaches, its incredible islands and of course its gorgeous girls…
Amongst of few thousand people in the world, south Thailand has another meaning.
It sounds like the Birds of paradise for climbers. In the south part of Thailand in the Krabi’s area, Phan Nga Province, an unimaginable number of huge crags are displayed all over beautiful islands, offering to the climber a straight way to “Paradise”.

Developed in the early 80’s by climber’s who fell in love with this amazing scenery and rock potential in south Thailand is a “Must” in the rock climbing world!
The one who wants to discover what the world is offering in climbing beauty cannot avoid a stop over in Ton Saï.

Nowadays, while staying in Ton Saï bay you will share your days of climbing with people coming from all over the world. Another, very rich aspect that this unique place offers.
While sitting on the beach, chilling in an hammock, or drinking a night time beer, climbers will come to you and offer you to share a climb. So easy to find partners in this peaceful atmosphere.

But even in the paradise, black clouds can always come over and turn the beauty into dramatic scenery. An image of terror!!!

Quickly, when this climbing crew started to set up main routes in traditional climbing they felt the need to re bolt each and every crag in stainless steel bolts to offer a comfortable and safe climb.
Unfortunately after 9 months of re bolting they realised all efforts were essentially useless.
The high density of magnesium contained in the limestone, the salty atmosphere, the heavy rainfalls, and the high level of humidity in the air lead to a high degree of bolt’s corrosion even on the stainless steel one.
Few months after a new expansion bolt is placed up you cannot trust the resistance against a fall. A simple body weight charge on a corroded bolt will break it!!

As it is an unique situation in the world, some steel company tried to understand what was going on.
Results show that the only solution is to re bolt each and every route in Titanium bolt using very strong double component glue.
It is the only way to offer a safe climb to the 2000 people climbing in Ton Saï every week in average.
But this has a cost effect. A titanium bolt is costing 9.5US$ + the glue and of course the time spent by each and every passionate climber in love with this place.

The problem is it needs more than 6000 bolt to cover Ton Saï walls alone.

There exists no local infrastructure to develop and manage such a project.

Not even any climbing equipment brands want to support this re bolting effort.

Only the “American Safe Climbing Association” contributed of purchase of a large amount of bolts in 2009 and 2010.

Now, it is up to us to continue and to spread awareness.

So, the only way was to raise private funds.

Therefore, Josh Lyon, one of the most famous North American climbers, has created a DVD about the bolting problem in Ton Saï Beach, if purchased 100% of proceeds goes to replacing all old dangerous stainless steel bolts.

This DVD took 2 years to be made and will express to you the urgency for action in order for safe climbing to take place.
You will discover some of the pioneer climber’s on the best crags surrounded by amazing sceneries on the various walls that south Thailand has best to offer.

One DVD cost 500 Baht which is equal to one Titanium bolt.

“By buying this film you are a part of The Thaitanium Project”, Sam Lightner.

To provide you a copy of it you can rather visit
or send an email to: , kind Attenttion to Heather Miner or Mark Miner

Jeanluc Jubert

Director Top Rock Adventures.

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